I already concluded that the bottom foot-plates had to be replaced
and suspected the sills. Close examination showed that the sills
were much worse than initially seen. The mounting points of the
sills (A and C post) were far-gone too.
These areas need to be quit strong to support the sills mounting
and therefor I replaced these areas using home made repair panels
which took some time to get in the right shape. The repair as
performed near the C post is shown in the pictures below.
At the front of the car the plate supporting the pedals was also
replaced because water in the interior did some devastating work at
the front of the car (common known weak spot of the 2CV). Also the
hinge of the hood was replaced and some patches of steel which
contain the holes for the screen wipers. These holes were enlarged
in the past to be able to fit the electrical screen wipers, which
were installed when I bought the car. Also the rear wheel arches
needed some work in the area of the rubber support.
One of my major concerns when replacing all these body elements
was to make sure no unwanted twists were made and that all major
distances were as before. This of course is very important in order
to be able to mount the bodywork on the chassis and to mount the
other body panels like doors and boot. I did take some precise
measurements in advance and worked my way through in the following
order;
- I had to start with replacing the low end of the front ''side
plates'' being the plates which support the lowest mounting point
of the front wings. These were heavily corroded and had to be
replaced to be able to be used as a mounting point for the sill
later.
- Putting in place the new pedal supporting plate in the front.
Make sure the low part of this plate is correctly aligned with the
bottom of the left and right side panels. Later this plate is
functioning as mounting point for the front of the floor plates and
the front of the sills. The reproduction pedal plate did not have
some of the required mounting points for the gas pedal rubber hose
so some nuts were welded on to be able to mount this afterwards.
The reinforcement plates between this pedal plate and the plate
supporting the dashboard were welded again. The finishing touch was
to dress down the welds and to fold the surrounding plate (panel
beating with a hammer and dolly) over the repaired panel to reflect
the original way the plate was mounted.
- A and C post reinforcements as mentioned above with replacing
also some of the surrounding plates like the filler plate in the
wheel arch, next to the C post.
- Placing the sills between the A and C post, taking care the
overall measure was correct. TIP: I fitted the doors to be
able to adjust the sill and to fine-tune the location of the B post
on the newly placed sills. This step was finished with replacing
the bottom filler plate attached to the sill below the C post. All
this was more work than expected.
- Put in place the two floor plates which are mounted each side
of the chassis. On these floor plates some reinforcements were
welded at the locations of the front outriggers as was done on the
original floor plates.
After welding in all this new steel it was time for the final check of
the bodywork on the chassis to see if the holes for the M7 bolds
matched the holes in the chassis. In general it was OK although the
holes in the obtained reproduction floor plates were not placed
very accurately.
TIP: One thing I noticed in this trail fitting was that
the rear brake pipe running in front of the rear axle touched the
bodywork. I corrected this by bending the pipe closer to the rear
axle. Be aware this might happen after you installed a new pipe as
it might produce a hole in the brake pipe very fast!
This phase took quit some time but was very rewarding. Initially I even
thought about scrapping this body shell and buying a second hand
good one. However I liked the challenge (and it turned out that
''good'' secondhand body shells also needed work).So now it was
time to start doing the paint work on the
body.